Skin deep

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Skin deep
A by-product of the rubber-making process has great implications for the cosmetics industry
Published: 7/10/2010 at 12:00 AM
Bangkok Post: Newspaper section: Outlook

What do car tyres and facial whitening cream have in common? Ask Rapepun Wititsuwannakul, and she will give you a surprising answer.



"We all know that para rubber latex is used as the main material in the car tyre industry, but today we have found an alternative use for the latex, as part of it can be an effective agent in whitening products," said researcher Rapepun.

With over 20 years of experiences as a researcher and a professor in biochemistry at the Faculty of Science and Technology at one of the most promising institutions in the Southern Region, Prince of Songkla University, her latest research unveils the miracle of para rubber as the latest natural agent to replenish and brighten human skin.

"Here at my department, we have a special research centre in natural rubber products technology transfer, where we study and produce research specialised in the para rubber tree, which is an important plant in the region," Rapepun explained.

Originally from the Amazon rainforest in South America, in 1899 Phraya Ratsadanupradit brought para rubber trees from Malaysia and planted them for the first time in Trang province. Later they became popular among farmers throughout the Southern Region. Nowadays, para rubber trees are among the most economically important plants in Thailand, as well as neighbouring countries in Southeast Asia.

"And along the way, we discovered an intriguing fact about para rubber that could double the value of the rubber tree latex," she added.

Rapepun shared that the idea of the research derived from a simple observation that there must be a secret for a tree that is wounded every single morning but heals itself perfectly, day after day.

"Para rubber is a tough living creature," she said. "And its ability to replenish damaged tissues rapidly is truly amazing."



In 2006, at a time when the Thailand Centre of Excellence for Life Sciences announced its grants, Rapepun's promising research project was given the green light, with funding of 15 million baht to pursue the exciting new world of cosmetology.

"During the experiment, we found that the serum part, usually considered as a 'waste' product, is actually rich in natural agents medically known for improving skin health."

Scientifically named Hevea brasiliensis, para rubber trees are wounded daily by tapping, but the trees produce phytochemicals in their serum, which is rich in various natural agents, from protease inhibitors, organic acids to super antioxidants, to name a few. Most of these are known as popular agents used in beauty care products from leading cosmetics brands worldwide.



"We called the serum 'Hb extract', short for the scientific name of para rubber. Later we experimented with it on animal skin, under OECD test guidelines, and no adverse effects were found in irritation and skin sensitisation tests. The microbial load of the Hb extract was within the standard limits allowed by the FDA," said Rapepun.

Once the Hb extract was well studied, the next process was to prepare it as a form of dried powder, which was then mixed into a cream base with 5 percent of Hb extract.

"After finishing the first samples of Hb cream, we invited volunteers with various types of facial skin problems to examine the product," she explained.

After nine weeks of constant application on their faces, Rapepun realised with excitement that the results were positive.



"Those with facial melasma problems showed improvement, as the skin became brighter and the melasma gradually faded," she said. "The reduction of sebum level, or oil, decreased by 53 percent. Those with facial acne and skin inflammation reported a reduction of 100 percent," she said.

After three years, Rapepun introduced Hb cream at a 2008 showcase hosted by TCELS. Rapepun's research comprised the first academic papers to introduce a new chapter of para rubber into the cosmetics world. And the feedback among the locals, Rapepun said, was beyond expectations.

"I can remember the day we opened a booth at the showcase," recalled Rapepun. "There were people waiting in a long line to receive free samples. Thousands of bottles that we prepared disappeared," she said, smiling.

After the breakthrough, the Hb cream was registered as intellectual property for which Rapepun was named the inventor, while TCELS and Prince of Songkla University share the legal rights. The products are now featured at PSU Innovation Trading Co, an outlet for products derived from research at the university.

"Although there are some people who still doubt the efficacy of the product, so far we have gained a great response from clients, especially the locals who admire natural products," She said.

"Interestingly, many of the users are men; I'd assumed men rarely use cosmetics. A bottle of cream that is filled with various agents, though, really attracts them."

Since the launch two years ago, according to Rapepun, Hb creams sold approximately 5 million baht worth per month.

"Lately, we have had labs and companies from Germany, Japan and China visit our lab at the university," said Rapepun. "The media from Malaysia also asked to visit for an interview, because Malaysia is among the top natural rubber producers in the world."

"Hb extract is a true gem that needs to be polished," said Rapepun. "Our first step is to turn what was once a waste product into new hope for farmers. And we have to find out more of the hidden secrets of this serum in the future."

At the end of the interview, Rapepun unveiled the latest possibility from the mysterious para rubber trees.

"We discovered that Hb extract helps control pheomelanin, which basically gives human skin a reddish-brown tone, and consequently we can decrease pheomelanin and make human skin look brighter. Conversely, another enzyme in the extract, methylthioadenosine, may be able to reverse that process and make the skin look darker," said Rapepun.

"Therefore, we are now studying ways to create a tanning cream for foreigners from Hb extract."

http://bangkokpost.com/leisure/innovation/200139/skin-deep

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The wicked way of whitening

Some skin-lightening products widely available in the market might not be as effective as they promise
Published: 10/05/2011 at 12:00 AM
Bangkok Post: Newspaper section: Life
 
Just to brighten her skin, Fah (not her real name) decided to peel it off just like peeling an apple. The only difference is that she used chemicals instead of a sharp knife.

"My skin is actually not too dark," said the 21-year-old university student. "But I just want to see how brighter it can be."

Fah purchased skin peeling products from a website that was recommended by her like-minded peers who also used the products. The set she bought cost around 2,000 baht and comprised three bottles of chemical peeler, two bars of carrot soap, a bottle of rice milk moisturising cream, a bottle of green apple moisturising cream, a bottle of skin conditioning cream and sun protection powder.

"You first apply the chemical substance to the arms and legs, leave it for 10 minutes and then take a shower. Soap and cream is used after the peeling process. The chemical will make the skin dry - so dry that it peels off. Then you really need to stay indoor for about two weeks for new skin that comes out cannot face strong sunlight," explained Fah about how to use chemical skin peeler.

She said her skin looked brighter right after the first use and all her friends also said so.

The fad for skin whitening, which has largely been influenced by the Korean and Japanese beauty trend, show no signs of abating. Products specially developed to whiten the skin have been widely available, especially on the internet, despite several skin-whitening-related horror stories reported in recent years.

Since last year, Thailand's Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has enforced regulations regarding the sale of cosmetics and skin products, making its approval stamp compulsory for all cosmetics that are put on the shelf. But despite such enforcement, a large number of products sold on websites as well as in some shops escape the FDA's magnifying glass. Worse still, beauty-conscious consumers seem to shrug off the FDA approval on the merchandise. And of course, Fah is one of them.

"I don't really care because from what I studied, the FDA can't really guarantee anything. So I don't care," Fah said.

But according to Associate Professor Nopadon Noppakun from Chulalongkorn University's Division of Dermatology, Department of Medicine, skin products that have not been certified by the FDA, including sunscreens, skin-whitening cream, chemical skin peelers and so on, are likely to be not up to standard and can pose health risks.

"First we have to understand that the majority of skin products contain chemical substances. What we have to ensure is whether or not there are too many chemicals in some certain products and whether they have undergone laboratory safety tests to check whether they can cause allergies or blackheads," said Dr Nopadon, who is also president of the Dermatological Society of Thailand.

The skin whitening trend, Dr Nopadon added, is an issue that the Dermatological Society of Thailand as well as the FDA have been campaigning about during the past few years. Skin whitening methods, be they chemical peels, laser treatments or injections, only render temporary results. Worse, if carried out in a wrong way, they can permanently darken the skin.

Take chemical skin peeling, for example. The technique has actually been practiced among dermatologists with the aim to get rid of dead skin. The process involves skin specialists using a chemical solution that causes the dead skin to slough off and eventually peel off. Chemical solutions usually used in the treatments include trichlor acid, beta hydroxy acid and alpha hydroxy acid, commonly known as AHA.

How much and how deep the skin can peel off, the doctor said, depends on the intensity and the quantity of the chemical solution applied. And the longer the chemical solution is left on the treated area before being rinsed off, the deeper the skin can be peeled.

Dr Nopadon noted that chemical skin peeling cannot brighten the skin permanently. And if the peeling is done without the close supervision of specialists, it is likely that the chemical substances can harm the inner layer of the skin.

"The outermost layer of the skin is called the stratum corneum. It serves as a protective barrier that interfaces with hostile environments. It also prevents water from evaporating through the skin. It is a natural protection against sunlight as well. If you peel it off, it simply means you have less protection against sunlight. In the long run, the skin will get easily irritated," the dermatologist said.

But is chemical skin peeling really able to make the skin brighter?

Melanin is produced by the body and located in the outer layer of the skin, Dr Nopadon explained. The skin naturally sheds the pigment through dead skin cells, but this usually happens little by little. If you use chemical substances to peel off the dead skin, of course the melanin goes with the dead skin, but the chemical peeling does not rid of so significant amount of pigment that it could cause the change of skin colour. The skin might appear a bit brighter just like when you rub off dead skin during a shower. But after a while, your skin will revert to the colour it used to be.

"The most important thing to be worried about is that if you happen to be allergic to the chemical used during the peeling process, your skin might become even darker," warned the dermatologist, added that chemical skin peeling should be carried out only by skin specialists for safety reasons.

Besides chemical skin peelers, glutathione products are also becoming very popular among those who are determined to brighten and rejuvenate their skin. Glutathione acts as an antioxidant that the body naturally uses in several systems and functions. According to Dr Nopadon, only an adequate amount of glutathione intake can whiten the skin - but only temporarily.

Our body produces two types of melanin: red melanin and brown melanin, the specialist said. Both the amount and type of melanin produced is controlled by a number of genes. Red melanin is found in the skin of Caucasians, while brown melanin is found in Asian skin.

Glutathione cream, glutathione tablets, glutathione drinks and glutathione supplements widely available and advertised in the media are actually not able to lighten the skin colour. This is because, the doctor said, only a considerable amount of glutathione intake can affect the way the body produces melanin and can generate the production of more red melanin pigment. Apparently the oral and external use of glutathione products is not able to make that happen.

"Some skincare clinics offer intravenous glutathione injections to whiten the skin," Dr Nopadon said. "But the intravenous use of glutathione poses an extremely high risk of to those who are allergic to the chemical. There have been cases in which patients developed an allergic reaction to glutathione injections and the clinic operators were arrested."

Fah is still fortunate that she has yet to try glutathione injections despite the fact that some of her friends have already done so. While chemical skin peeling only involves external use, she conceded that she is quite afraid of the consequences of the glutathione injection given that the chemical will be in her bloodstream and the side effects might be too severe to handle.

As a skincare advocate, Dr Nopadon is of the opinion that the colour of the skin does not really matter. More important is how to keep your skin clean and moist. Chemical peeling, injections or any other skin-whitening technologies which claim to be able to change the skin colour can only create short-term effects. They can never change human genes.

"The best way to prevent your skin from getting darker is to protect yourself from strong sunlight," advised the dermatologist. "Sunscreens can only help protect you to some extent. But it is best to use an umbrella or wear on a hat every time you are exposed to sunlight."