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Offline Andrew Hicks

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Buriram to Angkor Wat - Here's the Info.
« on: December 12, 2009, 10:07:12 AM »
I've just gone to Angkor crossing the border from Surin and returning to Si Saket.

It was an amazing trip but I didn't find it easy getting information on routes etc.  The following is to share with you what I've learned.

Photos can be found on my blog at www.thaigirl2004.blogspot.com.

Andrew Hicks


ISAAN TO ANGKOR WAT - WHY, WHERE AND HOW!

I’ve just boldly been to Angkor Wat and I’m amazed because it now takes only two hours by the new road from Thailand’s Si Saket border crossing.

So why did I want to go to Angkor in Cambodia? 

Because it’s so close to home here in Surin province, because it’s one of the greatest ancient temple complexes in the world and because it haunts my mind and I just can’t keep away.

The trouble is that it’s been hard to get there as the roads have been so bad.  My map shows the main access road from Aranyaprathet/Poipet to Siem Reap as ‘impassable in the wet season’ and I well remember in the dry season of January 2002 bumping along it at walking pace, the old pickup dropping down into the water courses where the bridges were broken and slowly negotiating the deep pot holes and craters.  We’d paid extra to be in the cab and not outside in the dust and sun.  Trouble was another six people had paid to be in the cab and with the windows jammed closed and with no aircon, it was more than hot!

In my novel, THAI GIRL, the girl in a travel agents shop in Khao San Road, (Bangkok’s backpacker centre), tells Ben and Emma about taking an open truck from Aranyaprathet to Angkor.  “Road no good but very cheap.  Twenty people in the back, hot and dirty… nine hours, maybe twelve.  Better you fly aeroplane if you care your ass.”

That time I took her advice and flew from Bangkok into Siem Reap but suddenly everything has changed.  The major routes are now in good condition and the 150 kilometres from Aranyprathet/Poipet toSiem Reap for Angkor can be done in under three hours.  Another time I went from Trat to Koh Kong in Cambodia, took a boat to Sihanoukville, a bus to Phnom Penh, a boat six hours up the river and to the end of the Great Lake and then a motorbike into Siem Reap.  It took five days.  Now I’ve just got back to the Surin border in exactly two hours.

For me now living in Surin province in Isaan, there’s no more any need to travel two sides of a triangle five hours westwards to Aranyaprathet and then three hours east again to Siem Reap.  These great temples lie directly to the south of us, perhaps only 100 kilometres from the Thai border and now it’s possible to get to them that way.  Or is it? 

I’ve found it extraordinarily difficult to find out about the roads, but having just gone in a circle, crossing the border from Surin, going anti-clockwise to Angkor and returning to Si Saket, I’ll now tell you what I’ve learned.

The major border crossing across the massive natural barrier of the Dongrak Mountains in southern Isaan has always from Surin’s Chong Jom to O’Smach in Cambodia.  Here on the Thai side there’s a huge market and a four lane highway sweeps you smoothly up to the border.  As you cross, there’s a glitzy casino and a big resort and it’s all horribly slick and impressive. 

After that though as you enter Cambodia, it’s all downhill in more ways than one.  The unsealed road plunges down the Dongraks in a series of bumpy hairpins, the dust billowing and the car plunging wildly.  It’s hard to think this moonscape of a road can be passable in the wet season, except with four wheel drive.  The next 100 kilometres or so is then a reasonable dirt road, before it reaches the Poipet road and you turn left in a dog leg eastwards to Siem Reap.

To promote international friendship and cross border trade, a new route has now been developed from Chong Sanggam in Si Saket province with substantial Thai money being spent on good sealed roads.  On Thailand’s Route 24 at Ban Lalom just west of Phusing the big blue signs now show the turn off to Angkok Wat.  The road across the border on both sides is so new, it probably doesn’t appear on your map but it is thus well signed from Route 24. 

Once in Cambodia the road is direct and fast and coming back and completing our circle we covered the fast road from Siem Reap to the border in exactly two hours.  The only problem is that, unlike Chong Jom, the border crossing itself is totally undeveloped, a dusty road through the dry jungle with a few barriers, push carts and portakabins.

Using either entry point, you’ll have to be dropped at the border as leaving your vehicle there would be more than risky.  You also ideally need to have booked a Cambodian car to meet you and to take you to Siem Reap, though I’m not sure about mobile phone coverage across the border.  (My well-connected friend had booked a car and our 4WD arrived twenty four hours early just in case!) 

We were charged 2,500 baht by Keo Sotheara for a comfortable return trip from Siem Reap to Chong Sanggam.  He is near Chong Sanggam at Anlong Veng and speaks good English.  His card shows (855) 1267-7544 (Cambodia phone) and 086-343-7091 (Thailand phone). 

Alternatively Chan Sovan of Siem Reap is on 012-843992 or (855) 92-89-0005 (though another card says 374-374 prefixed either by 011 or 012 or 013 or 090.  Confused?  So am I!). 

We used a nine seater mini-bus to take us round the temples and between the three of us paid US$25 per day for the vehicle.  (Dee, our delightful driver was great value too.)  See www.angkorguide.asia/phansy  and rosphansy@gmail.com.  (Email him perhaps and ask him to send a car to Chong Sanggam?)  See also www.siemreaptaxidriver.webs.com.  Sorry if I’m a bit vague on all this as I didn’t do the phoning for cars. 

Alternatively, on crossing the border at Chong Jom, there could be some cars waiting for business or not far away.  At Chong Sanggam it would also be possible to get someone to call a car from Anlong Veng (twenty minutes away), or even from Siem Reap.  People are always friendly and helpful especially when it opens wallets. 

One small thought… returning to Chong Sanggam by car, arrange to stop off at the exquisite small temple of Banteay Srei and also at Kabal Spean to see the ‘River of  a Thousand Linggas’ as they are en route and well out of town.  (For Banteay Srei, you’ll need to have bought an extra day on your temple access card, available at the main entry to the temple park.  It’s US$20 per day, US$40 for three days and US$60 for seven days.  It seems you can opt for the days not to be consecutive… six days running could cause total exhaustion.)

To get round the temples most visitors use a tuk tuk which is a motorbike towing a covered trailer that seats two in comfort and costs US$10 to 15 per day according to how far you want to go.

Pick up a “Siem Reap Visitors Guide” (‘Canby guide’) in a hotel or restaurant when you arrive.  See www.canbypublications.com]www.www.canbypublications.com[/url].  It’s a remarkably good free guide book with coverage of the history of the Khmer empire and of each temple, as well as the usual comprehensive tourist information on everything you can possibly think of.

As to accommodation, there’s a huge range of choice from US$5 a night.  We paid US$15 a night (yes, 500 baht!) for the Reaksmey Chanreas Hotel which is on the right at the bottom end of Sivatha Boulevard, the main drag in town.  It had beautifully appointed rooms with fridge and TV, all to a very high standard. There were excellent baguettes and breakfasts and pleasant staff whose aim in life is proving that cleaning rooms and serving the ‘barang’ is the most fun thing you could ever do.  Highly recommended!  Most of the expensive hotels are stuck out on their own but this one is right between the old market and the tourist night market and all that the town has to offer.

And Siem Reap certainly has a lot to offer.  Ten years ago when I was first there, it was a dusty little provincial town trundling with ox carts and amputees, but now it’s a dusty big town with many attractive bars and restaurants and more cotton scarves for sale per acre than anywhere in the world.  Something of its innocence has been lost though but that’s ‘progress’’ and at least it has been well done.  If only the Thai tourist traps could manage a fraction of the style and good design that seems to be second-nature to the Cambodians.

As for money, my Kasikorn card produced US dollars from an ATM machine in town and I didn’t have to use it too often.  Thai baht are widely accepted but when spending either currency you end up with handfulls of Riel as change which at 4,000 to the Dollar is a pain.  With three currencies and a pocketful of zeros, it’s exceptionally hard for the numerically challenged such as me.

After some great experiences, on getting back by car to Chong Sanggam, I called Cat and we arranged to meet at our favourite Thai restaurant by the lake.  The pickup we hired to take us there from the dust and mess of the border then ran over Peter’s toes as we were loading our stuff into the back, but that was the only disaster in the whole week.

If I now review the best weeks of my life, this one would have to be high on the list.  Angkor and all that the ancient Khmers have left behind is truly magnificent.

 My next posts on this blog will tell you all about what we did, including seeing the ‘lost temple city’ of Banteay Chmar, wading through the swamp to the temple on the island in the middle of the Lake, photographing a thousand devatas at Angkor and meeting ‘Miss Saigon’ in the Zanzy Bar in Siem Reap.  Well some of it anyway! 

It was non-stop action and now I really think I need a holiday. 

Finally, do please post a Comment with any questions on all this and with additional info (or corrections) that could be helpful, especially for other Isaan resident travellers. 

There’s nothing much to do around here in my Surin village, but I’ve just discovered that one of the world’s greatest religious monuments is now only a few hours from home.  It wasn’t that easy to find out though.

« Last Edit: March 29, 2010, 06:32:50 PM by ADMIN »

Offline nookiebear

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Re: Buriram to Angkor Wat - Here's the Info.
« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2009, 10:39:42 AM »
Very informative,thanks very much for sharing.

Offline TBWG

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Re: Buriram to Angkor Wat - Here's the Info.
« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2010, 08:33:22 PM »
Cheong Chom to Siem Reap

Hi Bums

Anyone been by road from Cheong Chom to Siem Reap? Are taxis available Cambodia side? If so how much? How long does it take? and what is the road like  drivinggear

Thanks

TBWG sawadi
« Last Edit: April 07, 2010, 08:54:04 PM by ADMIN »

dave the dude

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Re: Buriram to Angkor Wat - Here's the Info.
« Reply #3 on: April 07, 2010, 10:48:58 PM »
Cheong Chom to Siem Reap

Hi Bums

Anyone been by road from Cheong Chom to Siem Reap? Are taxis available Cambodia side? If so how much? How long does it take? and what is the road like  drivinggear

Thanks

TBWG sawadi

Hi Number 2
Yep, been there done that. Taxi''s are always available and they are usually old Japanese saloon cars. Price was 1800b about 2 years ago and it takes about 3 1/2 hours because it is the worst roads I have experienced anywhere in the world(its not the distance). You will see no asphalt/concrete roads between the border and Siam Reap, just dust and lots of it. The bridges are a feature and just have to be seen, ONCE!. I would not, however, attempt it during the rainy season, seriously!

Number 1

In saying all of that, mate, I would do it again because its well worth the visit. The Ankor beer is even better than Leo, let alone that Horse P!ss you drink.

Offline TBWG

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Re: Buriram to Angkor Wat - Here's the Info.
« Reply #4 on: April 08, 2010, 09:12:42 PM »
Cheong Chom to Siem Reap

Hi Bums

Anyone been by road from Cheong Chom to Siem Reap? Are taxis available Cambodia side? If so how much? How long does it take? and what is the road like  drivinggear

Thanks

TBWG sawadi



Hi Number 2
Yep, been there done that. Taxi''s are always available and they are usually old Japanese saloon cars. Price was 1800b about 2 years ago and it takes about 3 1/2 hours because it is the worst roads I have experienced anywhere in the world(its not the distance). You will see no asphalt/concrete roads between the border and Siam Reap, just dust and lots of it. The bridges are a feature and just have to be seen, ONCE!. I would not, however, attempt it during the rainy season, seriously!

Number 1

In saying all of that, mate, I would do it again because its well worth the visit. The Ankor beer is even better than Leo, let alone that Horse P!ss you drink.


HI DDt

Thanks for prompt reply #1    Think someone told me that the road from Chong Chom crossing to Siem Reap has been upgraded recently and is now quite reasonable.

Although I might have imagined it all whilst under the influence of that nectar "Archa" that you so rudely refer to as horse piss! confused4


TBWG aka#2

dave the dude

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Re: Buriram to Angkor Wat - Here's the Info.
« Reply #5 on: April 09, 2010, 08:30:21 AM »
HI DDt

Thanks for prompt reply #1    Think someone told me that the road from Chong Chom crossing to Siem Reap has been upgraded recently and is now quite reasonable.

Although I might have imagined it all whilst under the influence of that nectar "Archa" that you so rudely refer to as horse piss! confused4


TBWG aka#2


Neigh Dobbin

I think its the road to the other border NOT Crap John crossing.
Please dont let me put you off though, David. Its a fantastic place and worth the journey, that is all part of the fun. Siam Reap is a nice new town with great bars & restaurants, cheap copy DVD's, beautiful ladies and great Khmer & Indian food. I stayed in the Casa Ankhor Hotel and enjoyed it.

You must look out the Dead Fish Bar, its memorable because it has crocodiles not on the menu but in pools inside.  confused4

Enjoy and dont forget to stock up on US$
 

dave the dude

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Re: Buriram to Angkor Wat - Here's the Info.
« Reply #6 on: April 09, 2010, 08:32:03 AM »
I was thinking of making this a long post like Andrews, but I just run out of ink (or was that interest)
« Last Edit: April 09, 2010, 10:53:07 AM by ADMIN »

Offline TBWG

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Re: Buriram to Angkor Wat - Here's the Info.
« Reply #7 on: April 09, 2010, 01:42:50 PM »
Hi DDt

I'm enquiring for a friend, I have in fact been to Siem Reap/Ankghor Wat and stayed at the Dead Fish Tower Hotel.. Thats the one that states on the internet that they do not serve Rat, Dog or Worm!  By that I think they mean as food  hungry1 not clientel!  For worm I think one should read snake!


TBWG sawadi
« Last Edit: April 09, 2010, 01:45:30 PM by ADMIN »

Offline Vombatus

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Re: Buriram to Angkor Wat - Here's the Info.
« Reply #8 on: June 23, 2011, 09:34:47 PM »
Just back from Cambodia.

Prakhonchai to ChongChom/O'Smach to Siem Reap.

Four and half hours door to door. I imagine you could do it in 4 hours if the taxi doesn't have to stop to fill up with LPG (25 minute exercise!) and you don't have to wait at immigration for Falangs with UK passport/Resident Permit/etc  :o

Superbly arranged, by the afore-mentioned Prakhonchai Nick, a taxi was $35 each way and a very nice hotel (Central Boutique Angkor) - five mins from David's Dead Fish bar - was 1,050 Baht a night. B & B, deluxe standard room, swimming pool, friendly and helpful staff.

This is a must do trip but I don't intend to do a travelogue - I simply wanted to say that roads have improved and are receiving further extensive improvement. A few places are a bit 'iffy' but local drivers know where the pot holes are ! Eventually, I think I could do this in 3 to 3 and a half hours..

Bought some great 10" baguettes for 7.5 Baht and some half-decent Australian red for $4.5 (fromn a restaurant).

BromleyBumkin

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Re: Buriram to Angkor Wat - Here's the Info.
« Reply #9 on: June 24, 2011, 07:34:31 AM »
Just back from Cambodia.

Prakhonchai to ChongChom/O'Smach to Siem Reap.

Four and half hours door to door. I imagine you could do it in 4 hours if the taxi doesn't have to stop to fill up with LPG (25 minute exercise!) and you don't have to wait at immigration for Falangs with UK passport/Resident Permit/etc  :o

Superbly arranged, by the afore-mentioned Prakhonchai Nick, a taxi was $35 each way and a very nice hotel (Central Boutique Angkor) - five mins from David's Dead Fish bar - was 1,050 Baht a night. B & B, deluxe standard room, swimming pool, friendly and helpful staff.

This is a must do trip but I don't intend to do a travelogue - I simply wanted to say that roads have improved and are receiving further extensive improvement. A few places are a bit 'iffy' but local drivers know where the pot holes are ! Eventually, I think I could do this in 3 to 3 and a half hours..

Bought some great 10" baguettes for 7.5 Baht and some half-decent Australian red for $4.5 (fromn a restaurant).

Ray
Just curious, is the Dead Fish Bar still any good?

I heard it had gone down hil,l which is a shame as I thought it was great a few years ago?

Offline Vombatus

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Re: Buriram to Angkor Wat - Here's the Info.
« Reply #10 on: June 24, 2011, 10:09:27 AM »

Ray
Just curious, is the Dead Fish Bar still any good?

I heard it had gone down hil,l which is a shame as I thought it was great a few years ago?

Didn't actually go in Dave. Last time I think it was open but looked dead and this time I didn't notice that it was open. (It is away from the main centre so we only ever traveled past. Nick may have been more observant - I will ask him when he gets over the sh*ts  crazydance

Offline Prakhonchai Nick

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Re: Buriram to Angkor Wat - Here's the Info.
« Reply #11 on: June 24, 2011, 07:24:34 PM »
I believe I advised that the Dead Fish bar was closed when I last visited in February. Looked just as "DEAD" when we strolled past this time

The "IN" place is supposedly Blue Wave, but that's only for when visiting with the lads! Next time!

Offline Admin

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Re: Buriram to Angkor Wat - Here's the Info.
« Reply #12 on: June 24, 2011, 07:36:15 PM »
Well & Long Established Cambodia Farang Forum:
http://www.khmer440.com/chat_forum/

Cambodia Pocket Guide:
http://www.cambodiapocketguide.com/index.html

Siem Reap Bars and Nightlife:
http://www.canbypublications.com/siemreap/siem-reap-bars.htm

'Blue Wave' Club:
http://www.canbypublications.com/siemreapads/blue-wave-siem-reap.htm

The 'Dead Fish' Bar/Restaurant in Cambodia.
*Video is 3 years old.


« Last Edit: June 24, 2011, 07:39:34 PM by Admin »

Offline sprog1

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Re: Buriram to Angkor Wat - Here's the Info.
« Reply #13 on: July 03, 2011, 07:12:51 PM »
  Hi, i've just read the post  about Angkor Wat & i've found them very informative but can anyone tell me are the roads suitable for cycling. I would like to do a couple of tours a year, & seeing that I have never been to Angkor Wat I think it would be an ideal one to start with.
  I will e rideing on a road bike, not a mountain bike, & I would like to know the condition of the road, & is it safe to travel by bike. I'm hoping to ride around 100, to 150klm a day so I would like to know about overnight stops from Buriram, & anything else that you think might help.
  Thanks

 

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